A chronology of the buildup of
TurtleTruck. Separated
into major phases, in descending order.
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Phase 3
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- Goodyear MT/R Tires 35" x 12.5" on 15" x 8" Steel
Wheels,
2.5" Backspace
- All Pro Off Road Extreme Lift Kit
- HySteer crossover steering
- 4" lift front and 5" lift rear long travel springs
- front U-Bolt Flip and rear Spring Perch
- Bilstein 5100 shocks
- Front Shock Hoops
- Johnny Joint rear shackle mounts
- front and rear 1.5" greasable shackles
- Wilderness Rack from Garvin Industries
- Front Range Off Road A/C to Onboard Air kit
- Longfield Super Birfields and Treated Front Inner
Axles
from Bobby Long
- K&N air filter
- Cobra 29 CB Radio
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Phase 2
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- Rebuilt Motor @ 204,000 miles.
- I decided to keep the 22R motor. Since installing
the Marlin
Crawler
stalling has not been a problem. As long as I don't stall the
motor,
the carburator has done fine at high angles.
- I did a few upgrades to improve performance and
reliability.
- TRD 50 State Smog Legal cam. Great
improvement in low end
torque,
moved the power band down about 1000 RPM, right where it is needed for
Off Road and for getting up to speed or up a grade on the highway.
- 20R double roller timing chain. I will never
have to
worry
about my timing chain... bombproof.
- 2 1/4" CatBack exhaust with Flowmaster muffler.
- Necessary after smashing my exhaust almost flat on Sledgehammer.
Better performance and great sound.
- Limiting strap on motor.
- 3/32" steel cable installed between the shock tower and
the power
steering
mount to limit motor rotation due to torque. With my crawl ratio
I wanted to protect my motor mounts.
- Custom rear spring pack
- Downey rear springs, 2" lift, bottom 2 leaves
from
the stock spring
pack (recommended to be used by Downey with their springs), and the
overload
leaf from the Northwest Off Road springs (see below).
Articulation
is good, I ramped 757 R.T.I. A little better flex than the
Northwest
Off Road springs. The ride on and off road is also a little
softer
than the NWOR springs. The Downey springs are infamous for
sagging...
time will tell. The Downey springs reverse arced so much that I
was
afraid that they would be ruined, so I put the NWOR overload leaves
on.
This allowed a little reverse arc, but not too much.
- Front Detroit
Softlocker
- EXCELLENT! After doing Rubicon, Dusy-Ershim and
several other
"Most
Difficult" trails I am very happy with the full locker up front.
If the minor problems mentioned below don't bother you (they don't
bother
me at all) I highly recommend it. From a driveability standpoint
the full locker in front is takes some getting used to. My
turning
radius in 4x4 went up slightly, but the biggest annoyance comes when
going
above 10 to 15 mph on moderate to easy terrain. Steering now
takes
much more effort, and the truck wants to straighten out. At
speeds
under 10 mph, normal for harder terrain, steering is no problem, only
slightly
more effort required. Occasionally steering will seem to lock,
but
a slight move forward or backward will free things up. AND,
with the Marlin Crawler all I have to do is slip into 4x2 low range and
steering returns to normal. So far the trade off of performance
verses
driveability is well worth it! I went with a full locker over an
ARB for simplicity and reliability. These points are all my
personal
preference, and experience... yours may vary. I have an ongoing
banter
with my ARB buddies... either system has advantages and
disadvantages.
- Ultimate
Rock SliderZ heavy duty nerf bars from 4Crawler
- Awesome, affordable, nerfs from Roger
Brown. I put these on just before doing the Rubicon, and have
since used them on Dusy-Ershim and many other "Black Diamond" rock
trails.
I have slid the entire length of the SliderZ on BIG rocks, used the
SliderZ
as a pivot point in tight spots, and slipped off of obstacles and come
down on them with the full weight of the truck... all with no damage to
the SliderZ other than small scratches and most importantly, NO DAMAGE
TO MY TRUCK! These great nerfs have also saved me from
flopping
on my side and doing MAJOR body damage at least twice.
- All Pro
Off-Road
High
Clearance cross member
- An inch and a half more ground clearance, and a skid
plate for BOTH
transfer
cases.
- All Pro
Off-Road
front
winch bumper
- Warn HS9500i winch
- Marlink Heavy Duty Tie Rod from Marlin
Crawler
- Heavy Duty Clutch from Marlin
Crawler
- Turbo (Heavy Duty) R151 transmission (23 spline)
from
86-87 4 Cylinder
Turbo Truck.
- "Ultimate
Marlin
Crawler"
2nd transfer case setup. The "Ultimate" is a dual transfer case
installation
with the stock 2.28 ratio low range in one transfer case and Marlin's
4.70
gear in the 2nd transfer case. I now have 20 4X4 forward gears, 4
4X4 reverse gears, 10 4X2 forward gears, and 2 4X2 reverse gears for a
total of 36 possible gear combinations! Finding the perfect gear for
climbing
or descending most any obstacle is no problem now. No more
stalls...
no more slipping the clutch because I can't 'crawl' up that rock... no
more brakes on downhill sections. My lowest crawl ratio is now
244
to 1.
- The stock 2.28 gears are in the front transfer case
(actually just the
gear reduction half of the transfer case, mated to the transfer case
with
Marlin's adapter) and the 4.70 gears are in the rear transfer
case.
This gives me the option to engage only the front lever and have a 4x2
low range. This option comes in very handy!
Crawl Ratio Table
Transmission Gear Ratio x Ring & Pinion Ratio x Transfer Case Ratio
x 2nd Transfer Case Ratio (if engaged)
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Ring & Pinion = |
5.29 |
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Trans Ratio
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4.31
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2.062
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1.436
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1
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0.838
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4.22
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Trans Gear
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1st
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2nd
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3rd
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4th
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5th
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Rev
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2x4 High
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22.80
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10.91
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7.60
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5.29
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4.43
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22.32
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4x4 High
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22.80
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10.91
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7.60
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5.29
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4.43
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22.32
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2x4 Low
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51.98
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24.87
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17.32
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12.06
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10.11
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50.90
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4x4 2.28
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51.98
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24.87
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17.32
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12.06
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10.11
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50.90
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4x4 4.70
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107.16
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51.27
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35.70
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24.86
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20.84
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104.92
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4x4 Dual
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244.32
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116.89
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81.40
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56.69
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47.50
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239.22
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- The Heavy Duty clutch, R151 "Turbo" Transmission, and the
"Ultimate
Marlin
Crawler" were all purchased from, and installed by Marlin
Crawler. It was a hassle to get my truck from Los Angeles to
Fresno (4 hours) but it was worth it to have the work done by none
other
than Marlin himself... Marlin and his crew did a great job, and
managed
to get everything finished in time for me to make a run to Los Coyotes
just before it was to be closed to Off-Roading.
- What has all this cost? I am afraid to add it
up! Better to
ask "how capable is your truck now?".
AWESOME... worth every penny!
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Phase 1
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- BFG Mud Terrain Tires, 33" x 12.5" on 15" x 8"
Chrome
Steel Rims
(4.5" backspace)
- Removed the front anti-sway bar
- This GREATLY improved the articulation in the
front. The front
Rancho
springs are not as bad as I originally thought.
- I don't really miss the anti-sway bar on the highway at
all, there is
only
a slight increase in body roll.
- Northwest
Off
Road Heavy
Duty rear springs, 2" lift. These springs lasted me about a
year.
I removed the overload leaves looking for a little more reverse arc,
but
it didn't make any difference.
- These springs broke the load leaf on the
passenger side.
This
was probably my fault (too much high speed dirt road action without the
overload leaves in place).
- Ride off and on road was greatly improved over the
stock springs with
add-a-leaf.
- The truck is level with these springs and the existing
2" longer
shackles.
- Extended length Stainless Steel brake lines from
Northwest
Off Road
- With the improved articulation after removing the front
anti-sway bar,
the stock brake lines were stretched like rubber bands.
- 5.29 Ring and Pinion (Superior)
- With 33's this gives me an overall gear ratio 1 step
lower than
stock.
Nice now (better crawl ratio), and will allow up to 36" tires in the
future
(if I decide to go that big).
- Front Detroit
Trutrac
- My logic was that I didn't want to stress the Birfields
with a full
locker.
The Trutrac let me down (needed a strap, or had to try an easier line)
too many times. The Trutrac was great in mixed, moderate
terrain...
but when the going gets really tough, it may, or may not lock up (even
with playing with the brake to induce lock up).
- Rear Detroit
Softlocker
- EXCELLENT! I don't even need 4 wheel drive until
the trail gets
very
rough.
- The Ring and Pinion gears, the Lockers and Limited slip
were purchased
from Drivetrain Direct.
The price INSTALLED was less than the price from Northwest
Off Road for the same parts in a "ready to install yourself" 3rd
member!
- Removed front Mud Flaps
- They were going to get ripped off anyway, and with the
new tires they
sounded
like playing cards in bicycle spokes when the front tires stuffed into
the wheel wheels and rubbed into them.
- Rear mud flaps are now gone also... thanks to "Mud Flap
Rock" on
Aftershock!
- With my current tires and wheels, the tires just
'barely' extend past
the
fenders. I will leave all the mud flaps off for now... I haven't
been pulled over... YET...
- Modified the front wheel wells
- The tires rub if turned at full compression (tires
stuffed into the
wheel
wells), tearing the plastic liner and cutting the tires on the fender
sheet
metal.
- This was worst on the driver's side. That is
where the damage
occurred
to the tire.
- I trimmed the plastic liner to remove the destroyed
portions and
hammered
the offending sheet metal ridge to a rounded off shape.
- The tires still rub a little, but are no longer
getting cut. I
still
need to do something about the rubbing... perhaps bump stops.
Moving
the axle forward would solve it, but create other issues with steering
/ drive shaft / front valance.
- Extended Differential Breathers
- Toyota part number 90404-51319 (actually a manifold
fitting) works
great
and is supposed to have a larger area to attach the hose to (compared
to
Nissan part number 38323-C6010). These fittings were about $6
each.
I used vacuum hose, hose clamps and tie wraps to relocate the stock
breather.
Most instructions advise you to use a small fuel filter, but the stock
breather relocates well and costs nothing! The front breather is
now high under the hood, and the rear breather is at the bottom of the
rear floor board area (I will relocate it higher later).
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Phase 0
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I am the 3rd Owner
- I purchased the vehicle from Joe Borja in February
2000, with
185K
miles on it.
- Bald, cracked 30" x 9.5" missmatched tires on stock
spoke wheels.
- The motor, a 22R, burned some oil, but ran ok The
motor lasted me
until 204,000 miles before I had it rebuilt.
- Joe Borja purchased the vehicle from the first owner with
16K miles on
it and took EXCELLENT care of it.
- The 4X4CMFT personalized license plate was from the first
owner.
It was true in 1984, but with the luxury SUV's of today it is more of a
joke. I think that it adds character to the vehicle.
- Some people don't get the 4X4CMFT, others get it right
away... If
you don't get it, I am not going to tell you!
- Those "Wild and Crazy Salt Lake City Boys" that I met
in Moab said CMFT
stands for 'Crazy M F Toyota', I had to laugh and tell them "no, that's
not it, but I suppose it could be an alternate translation". By
the
end of the day, Rob in his 85 bobbed Toyota Pickup actually earned the
'Crazy M F Toyota' title as he took on amazing alternate obstacles in
Pritchett
Canyon.
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- Joe Borja's Modifications to the
Vehicle
- Smitty Built Nerf Bars and front and rear bumpers
- Custom modifications to the front bumper to use the
factory valence.
- 3.5" Rancho lift
- Ranch springs in the front (fairly good articulation
in the front since
I removed the front anti-sway bar.
- Add-a-leaf in the rear with 2" longer shackles (VERY
stiff, almost no
articulation
and a punishing ride off road).
- Converted front parking lights to Turn Signal/Parking
Lights.
- Numerous other subtle modifications
- A lot of TLC... Thanks Joe!
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updated 12/17/03 |
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